How to Identify What Type of Lawn You Have
If you’re wanting to treat your lawn with fertilizers or weed killers, you’ve probably noticed that many products state they should only be used on specific types of lawn grasses. This makes things seriously tricky if you don’t know what kind of lawn you have (and let’s be honest, most of us have no idea). Here’s the good news, you don’t need to be a lawn fanatic to identify your lawn on sight! This handy guide can help you figure what type of lawn you have, what variety works best for your conditions and what mow heights you should be using to maintain a healthy lawn.
Why Does My Type of Lawn Matter?
Different grasses respond differently to fertiliser, mowing, and weed control. By correctly identifying your lawn type, you’ll know:
Which products should be used for optimal results – LawnPro Ultra Poa Lawn Weed Control for example should only be used on 100% Turf Ryegrass and Tall Fescue lawns, not other varieties. Browntop would benefit from being treated every 4 months with LawnPro Turfclean Ultra and LawnPro Ultra Year Round Lawn Fertiliser every 3 months to get that golf green look and feel. Perrennial Ryegrass and Fine Fescues which are sensitive to dry conditions would thrive from regular treatment with LawnPro Ultra Moisture Shield which improves water retention, protects against dry spots and improves drainage and airflow.
The best mowing height – see the table below, however a good general rule of thumb is to never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade at a time, no matter the season. Keeping your lawn slightly longer in summer protects against heat and moisture loss, while mowing a bit shorter in winter reduces disease and promotes thicker turf.
How much water it needs – Tall Fescues for example are great in drier, drought prone areas, whereas Perrennial Ryegrass and Fine Fescues would struggle in those conditions, so adjust your watering accordingly.
How to Identify Your Lawn at Home
In New Zealand’s climate, most lawns are made up of cool – season grasses or blends designed to balance durability with appearance. Below, we’ll walk you through the most common lawn types you’re likely to have at home, how to identify them, and what makes each one unique. Note: In many cases your lawn may end up being a variant e.g. Fine American Rye or it may be a blend of two grasses e.g. Fine Turf Rye and Fine Fescue.
Grass Type | What it looks like | Where you’ll see it | Strengths | Weaknesses | Ideal Mowing Height – Summer | Ideal Mowing Height – Winter |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
(Lolium perenne) A type of fine turf | Dark green, glossy leaf, medium texture, upright growth, blunt leaf tip | Home lawns, sports fields, parks | Fast germination, quick establishment, very wear tolerant | Shallow-rooted, thins out in hot, dry summers unless irrigated | 40 – 50mm (longer protects roots from heat stress) | 25 – 35mm (keeps tidy, reduces disease risk) |
(Festuca spp.) Creeping Red, Chewings, Hard Fescue | Narrow, fine blades, lush, velvety feel | Premium lawns, shaded gardens, ornamental lawns | Shade tolerant, grows in low fertility soils, luxury look | Low wear tolerance, struggles in hot / dry conditions | 40 – 50mm (prevents heat stress) | 30 – 40mm (consistent in shade) |
(Agrostis capillaris) | Narrow leaves, light green. Can be patchy if not maintained | Older traditional lawns, golf courses, low fertility soils | Tolerates low fertility, acidic soils | High maintenance, can become weedy if neglected | 25 – 30mm (don’t scalp; higher in dry conditions) | 15 – 25mm (dense cover, avoid cutting too short in frost) |
(Festuca arundinacea) | Dark green, coarse, wide leaves with clumping growth | Modern home lawns, drought–prone areas | Deep-rooted, drought–tolerant, tough | Coarser texture, less soft than mixes | 50 – 70mm (maximises drought resistance) | 40 – 50mm (protects crown while tidy) |
(Poa pratensis) | Rich green, boat–shaped tips, dense carpet, spreads with rhizomes | Premium lawns, cooler regions | Self–repairing, durable, long–lasting | Slow to establish compared to ryegrass | 40 – 50mm (reduces heat stress) | 25 – 35mm (dense turf, healthy at moderate height) |
Turf Rye + Creeping Red Fescue | Blend of rye toughness & fescue fineness, dark green, soft texture | Many modern NZ home lawns | Quick to establish, handles wear, attractive | Needs balanced care to maintain both species | 40 – 50mm (balances drought & wear) | 30 – 40mm (encourages density, prevents scalping) |
What About Invasive Lawn Types?
Not all grasses in your garden are desirable. Some common invaders include:
Kikuyu (Pennisetum clandestinum):A weedy grass that tends to pop up in lawns, garden beds and pavements. It spreads via thick runner roots, is light in colour and tends to have wide leaves branching off a central stem. It’s more common in the upper North Island than the rest of the country. It’s tough and drought-resistant, but invasive and hard to control.
Did you know that Kiwicare’s LawnPro Prickle & Hydrocotyleis great for surpressing Kikuyu? You can also spot treat particularly aggressive Kikuyu with Weed Weapon Invade Gel.
Poa annua (Annual bluegrass): A weedy grass that pops up with light green tufts and seedheads almost year-round. It can make lawns look patchy and uneven. In 100% Turf Ryegrass or Tall Fescue lawns, use LawnPro Ultra Poa Lawn Weed Control. On other varieties of lawn grass, spot treat with Weed Weapon Invade Gel.
Couch or Twitch Grass(Elymus repens): Creeping, coarse grass that invades garden beds and lawns, forming a dense network of rhizome roots. Couch or Twitch grass is best treated with Weed Weapon Invade Gel.
Still not sure?
If you’re still not confident about making the call on what type of lawn you have, snap a couple of close–up photos of it, and show them to a staff member in your local hardware store or garden centre. They will be able to help you select the products for your needs.